Fuji X-E1 Tips and Tricks

Tips and tricks for the Fuji X-E1

a.The rather huge battery holds a very limited amount of juice. Fuji has been so kind as not to code the battery, so you can get a pair of spare batteries for very little money. Spare batteries are highly recommended!

b. Using contrast detection (especially if you are coming from a DSLR) can be a little tricky as the camera is looking for a place with a high contrast difference to focus on. This means that if you are focussing on the edge of something (e.g. a face), the camera might choose to focus on something high contrast behind the subject (e.g. a black picture frame with a white passepartout).

c. If you want to use manual focus (on the 18-55), it is a good idea to set the OIS (anti shake) to continuous and use the zoom function for the viewfinder (press the command dial) as to get the most stable image for focusing.

d. When taking the X-E1 out of the bag, do take a look at the exposure compensation dial – it often moves 2-3 clicks without you noticing it.

e. The Eye Sensor, which activates the EVF is dependent on the shift from light to shadow to work. If you have the sun in sideways, your face may not make enough of a shadow to activate the Eye Sensor. Wear a Fedora or cover the sensor with your thumb.

f. Try setting Noise Reduction to -2 (0 is default) at lower ISOs; it will give you even sharper images!

g. Considering an (n)ever ready case. Original one too expensive? Get one from EBay, 3rd party – got one for about 10£, nice quality, chromed tripod screw, even had X-E1 stamped in the faux leather in at the bottom.

h. Doing night or low light shooting, I have found that setting the autofocus to continuous mode gives more and quicker hits.

i. To save battery only set autofocus to continuous when it really is needed. In continuous mode the X-E1 will try to obtain focus at all times, even if you are not touching the shutter button.

j. Don’t use Silent Mode if you want your flash to work. Instead, turn operation volume to zero.

k. DR400 requires a minimum of ISO 800 and DR200 requires ISO 400 to work. If you are in doubt as to the use of these settings, DR stands for Dynamic Range and the settings are meant to boost the dynamic range and prevent blown highlights.

l. Do not set ISO below 200 unless absolutely nessecary; itt will reduce the dynamic range.

m. I personally tend to make the autofocus point/box as small as possible and place it in the center, so that I know exactly where the camera will focus (focus/recompose method), but in low light it is a good idea to expand the autofocus box.

n. If you turn the reveiw function off, the screen will go blank for a fraction of a second, when you have taken a pic. In silent mode this will help you to determine that you have actually taken a pic.

o. When you have changed one or more settings in the menu, half pressing the shutter button will not only make the camera ready to shoot, but also save the settings you have changed.

p. When pressing the shutter button half way down and after the foucs ping, the X-E1 will close down the aperture, so that you get a preview with the depth of field visible in the EVF or on the screen.

q. I have found that the diopter adjustment on the viewfinder moves really easily. More than a few times I have had a problem manual focusing, only to find that the diopter has moved. I used a paint pen to mark the diopter adjustment wheel at the point I normally adjust it to for a clear image, that way I can quickly confirm it is set correctly when I pull it out of the bag.

Source : konicaman (at) rocketmail (dot) com


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